Rome at Sunset

Without a doubt, when I think of a favorite walk, or a beloved sunset that never fails my expectations, my favorite path to the Roman Forum comes to mind. The reason why I suggest this path, rather than waiting for hours at the Roman Forum to watch the Sun start to dip in the sky, is partially due to the splendor of the city. To me, there is something magical about traversing through time and art, and ending with a view of the Sun setting on glimpses of the past. As a pro tip, I suggest having either of the books, the Blue Guide: Rome or Rome: An Oxford Archaeological Guide, handy if you follow this same path in Rome. You will be stumbling over dozens of ancient sites and historical structures that you might want to read about as you meander through spaces.

With that said, there are various ways to get to the Roman Forum. To begin, I prefer to start in the Jewish Quarter. This route orients myself for a curated experience of sights, foods, as well as starts close to Trastevere. With respect, the Jewish Quarter (also known as the Jewish Ghetto) gets its name from the unfortunate time when Pope Paul IV segregated the Jewish people of Rome into this area. Although the walls of the ghetto have since been taken taken down a couple of centuries ago, there is still a strong cultural stronghold of Jewish people, history, and traditions that thrive in this area. One aspect of this quarter that I truly appreciate is the food; it is where you can see a blending of cultural and regional traditions. For example, the Jewish Quarter has some of the sweetest smells from its bakeries, beautiful carciofi alla giudia, and delicious shawarma that is perfect for a long day of walking. After having a bite to eat in the area, I would walk towards the gateway to the Porticus of Octavia.

The Porticus was a family monument reconstructed by Emperor Augustus, and dedicated to his sister, Octavia. During the time of the Jewish Ghetto, this area was where the fish market was located. Perhaps you can imagine walking by, seeing stalls of fish packed next to each other, with ancient Roman columns rising up from the ground, both intact and in pieces. Now, people can see the brick work that added to support the entry way, creating a barrel archway, as well as an entrance into the church, Sant’Angelo in Pescheria. This view from the same ground level as the Jewish Quarter helps to paint the picture that Rome is a city of layers. Buildings are constructed on top and alongside antiquity in order to create new spaces. This site alone shows how one building has evolved with time, with cultures, and its inhabitants.

Once I have taken the time to visually absorb the site, I take the winding ramp in front of the gateway down to see this structure at its base. This is where I start to feel miniscule in the face of architecture; and yet, it only goes downhill, or actually uphill, from here. Following the slightly curved path, two more ancient structures rise into view. The first of the ruins is the Temple of Saturn on the left; a few columns with a piece of the entablature hinting of the enormous building that once was. On the near right is the imposing Theatre of Marcellus with its barrel arches and grand height seeming to draw you in as you pass by. Notably, these are both Augustan family monuments, just like the Porticus. In this vicinity, I prefer to position myself on the highest point of the hill that connects these two buildings. I can imagine in my head an ancient Roman going to see a show in the theatre, then taking a stroll into the porticus at intermission, and later visiting the temple. Augustus essentially created smaller spaces within Rome that interact with one another to create a larger space in which ancient Romans could experience his curated view of Rome. One building without the other does not seem quite right; perhaps it is because things that come in threes provide a sense of balance.

As some time passes taking in this magnificent scene, I turn around and continue to walk towards the Capitoline Hill, with the side of the Victor Emmanuel II monument in view. As I am nearing one of the busiest centres of the city, I need to cross the Via del Teatro di Marcello, carefully, in order to be best positioned to climb the Capitoline Hill. This includes staring down cars and mopeds zipping by as I attempt to cross a street that is arguably busier than Times Square. Once I reach a large set of white stairs to my right, I begin to climb. Statues of Castor and Pollux start to appear, looming over the steps to greet me as I try not to huff and puff climbing this ancient hill.

At the top of the stairs, the space opens up to the Campidoglio; an oval piazza designed by Michelangelo that is flanked by the buildings of the Musei Capitolini and the Palazzo Senatorio. I highly recommend these museums as they house the original equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (the one in the piazza is a copy), parts of the colossal of Emperor Constantine, one of the largest collections of busts of Roman Emperors in the world, and you can see the Forum through ancient Roman archways below the Palazzo. Yet by this time, the Sun will only be out for another 15-20 minutes before setting. Thus, I must take in the grotesque theatre masks towards the capitals of the columns and peek in through the windows of the museums before veering to the left of the Palazzo Senatorio. I know I am on the right path when I see a statue of the Lupa nursing babies (Romulus and Remus) on my right, as well as a nasone (little water fountain) on the left. I 10/10 recommend this specific nasone as it provides surprisingly cold and refreshing water despite the Roman heat.

Even better, in front of me, the Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman Forum comes into view. At the edge of the hill, there is a stairway that I prefer to take a couple of steps down in order to have the best vantage point. As I look right, the Sun slowly starts to sink behind buildings, including the remains of the Temple of Saturn and other Roman monuments. The colors of the sky in its light blues, purples and softened yellows are a beautiful contrast to the monochromatic hues of weathered marble. Che bellissimo.

As a bonus, when I am in the mood, I walk back briskly through the Campidoglio, and quickly climb up more of the Capitoline Hill (taking a left before the twin statues). At the top of the hill, past the last museum entrances, there is a courtyard filled with trees and benches. From here, you can see the last bits of intense orange Sun poking its rays through church bell towers and cyprus trees. Sometimes, the chorus of church bells will continue to ring until the Sun has set behind the edges of Rome.

As I reflect about this sunset, I am at a loss for words to truly describe this experience. This walk, this sunset, encapsulates the past and the present into one view. This encounter brings together the impermanence of time, the solidity of marble, set against a singularly beautiful, yet simple moment in nature. When in Rome, walk this path with an open mind, and begin to taste a hint of what you can learn from the city.