The Adventure Begins in Edinburgh

Before you read this new adventure, I would like to preface that this travel blog will begin a series of entries relating to one another, as they all occurred within a single trip to Scotland, Ireland, and Northern Ireland. For the most part, I will be discussing these blogs as if you are alongside us in the journey - a play- by-play of sorts - as I recorded these entries each day. Furthermore, I shall also be using “we” throughout the following blogs as my husband was my constant travelling companion over the course of this trip. I hope you can sit back, and relax as the stories begin!

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Finally, we are back in Europe. The last time we were in Europe was in October of 2023 when we were visiting Berlin, Germany. Honestly, it was a whirlwind of a trip over the course of four days that I will need to share with you all at some point. As with many trips, there is something about being across the pond that changes the air and gets my blood pumping. Which is pretty good as we face public enemy number one - jet lag. Personally, I like to face it head on and experience a full day in our new environment in order to adjust more quickly. However, I planned this day to be more relaxed as we explore Edinburgh in case one of us could not sleep on the plane ride.

All in all, Edinburgh and its surroundings are fairly easy to get around. To travel to our lodgings, we are taking the #17 Lothian bus to our hotel, viewing the peaceful houses and snug cottages as we pass by. Suburbs are broken up by green grass fields and dark forests that are occasionally interrupted by streams and stone bridges. We chose to stay in Leith, a waterfront neighbourhood within the larger Edinburgh city, partially as it is less expensive than being within the city centre, but also because it provides lovely restaurants by the water and its own activities. With our bags stored at the hotel, and a windbreaker on, we are ready to meander through Edinburgh!

As Scotland often does, it presents a variety of weather patterns in a brief period of time. We have been thus far greeted by winds, soft rain, an average rain, and then a lovely, warm, clear sky. Many times, people in this country will say, “In Scotland, you experience all four seasons in one day”, which has been quite true. At least we have found some reprieve from the elements in the upper level of the double decker bus.

The goal of the day is to get boots on the ground, get re-oriented in town, and refresh my cognitive map. This includes climbing tall stairways into Old-Town Edinburgh if you start in New-Town, avoiding the steady stream of people on the Royal Mile, and making sure you are on the correct level of the city as you reference your map. As an aside, my last trip to Edinburgh was a bit tricky with regards to orientation and following map directions. Thus, do not be fooled - Edinburgh has many levels and layers. To truly start our trip on a high note, I decided to start our exploration in a kirkyard- Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. If you do not know, a kirkyard is a Scottish term referring to a burial ground that is connected to a church. Now, you may be wondering, how is this a high note? This should be a low note, and is quite macabre. Well, if you are a Harry Potter fan, we are beginning the adventure to Edinburgh into the mind of J.K. Rowling by visiting Voldemort’s grave…. As we walk through the gates of Greyfrair’s Kirkyard, the wind and trees provide a bit of music. Not necessarily the woodwinds in “Hedwig’s Flight,” but a soft, melancholy trill of rustling leaves and branches, as if pointing us to Tom Riddle’s tomb. This tombstone is a bit hidden within the kirkyard, yet, there are various people such as tour guides and other fans on the grounds that can help point you in the right direction. In addition to Thomas Riddell’s tomb (of course, Rowling changed a few letters), there are other tombstones here that have served as inspiration for some of her characters. Perhaps, it is fitting to look to the past to create stories of the future, as we see that history itself has its rhymes.

Once we have had our fill of macabre motifs and intriguing epitaphs, we make the trek back into the land of the living. We pass by The Elephant House, which is said to be where Rowling wrote the first chapters of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, as well as McGonagall’s Bar. Unfortunately, the bar was closed when we arrived, so we hopped a few doors down to a pub called King George IV. What a delight it is to sip on some hot tea, and enjoy a delectable pot pie in a cozy, mahogany panelled pub on a rainy day. I took out my sketchbook for a moment as well as I was entranced by the old fashioned lamps that hung around the bar area. This is a perfect moment to take in the day before carrying on.

While relaxing is enjoyable with such weather, I did not want the food coma to take over. After a brief period post-lunch, we are back on our feet to continue exploring Edinburgh. We embrace the weather with open arms, although we are using the trees as cover from the rain, and walk around the city to view Edinburgh Castle from different angles. As the castle starts to loom over us from above, I wish we could hear the choral music that welcomes young witches and wizards to Hogwarts. Or, perhaps the upbeat music of Diagon Alley as we walk to Victoria Street. Victoria Street is lined with colourful buildings that are shoulder to shoulder and are beautifully displayed on its curving street. In this space, we see stores filled with treasures, listen to boys playing the bagpipes, and watch as people hope to experience a little magic. With its style and lively appearance, people have believed this was a source of inspiration for Diagon Alley. As another aside, I promise that this leg of the trip in Scotland will not be a Harry Potter highlights tour. Nevertheless, I will remark on some of these places as this was one of the series that shaped my childhood.

After weaving through the masses, passing by stores of tartan wools and a couple more pubs, we make our way towards the Royal Mile. As I previously mentioned, the Royal Mile usually floods with people as this is a main thoroughfare from Old-Town to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (also known as Holyrood Palace), with sprinkles of important places, such as St. Giles. We decided to avoid the major hot spots today, and walk downhill along the road, taking the occasional break in stores or in a side street to provide a breather from the continuous flow of people. One of my favourite spots to step inside is the Tron Kirk Market. This inconspicuous market is hidden inside what was a church, now filled with local artists. I am happy to see some familiar stalls, as well as new creatives that filled these stone walls. There is a beautiful juxtaposition of large stained glass windows and contemporary art to ponder about as we take a rest on the benches towards the front of the market. At some point, we arise before our tired legs take over, and continue forward on the Royal Mile.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse, one of the British Royal palaces, soon comes into view as we near the end of the mile. Unfortunately, it is closed for a private event for the Duke of Edinburgh (who we did not see despite the swarm of police vehicles making its way towards the palace). This is probably a perfect turn of events as it permits this walking tour a natural close and allows us to take the opportunity to nod off on the bus. Fortunately, we are awake by our stop, and scurry off for a quick nap before having a bite to eat. Our choice for dinner is tucked away in a lovely little restaurant called Basil’s. The relaxed atmosphere, good food, and delightful service provides a soft landing to what turned out to be a full day. Though for dessert, we choose a local grocery store to browse for a selection of chocolate. Personally, I love reviewing what is in stock at grocery stores in other countries to see people’s preferences, and discover new confectioneries. With a couple of nibbles of chocolate, and today’s events recorded in my journal, I shall close these pages until tomorrow. See you later.