Walking in Trastevere

On a typical day in Rome, especially while conducting research for my master’s thesis, I would start the morning by waking up early and grabbing a cappuccino at Mammò or Caffè Settimiano in Trastevere. Trastevere is a cute neighborhood in Rome, full of history and where John Cabot University (my alma mater) is located. Sometimes, before having a caffè, I stop by Chiesa di Santa Dorotea. It is a lovely church where I could pray and meditate when it is open. Frequently, soft chants in Italian or Latin would play in the background.

Once leaving the church, I order un cappuccino portare via. per favore. Anche, un cornetto al cioccolato. Since I am taking it to go, it will be closer to 5 euros (it would be less if I stayed). Then, andiamo!

With a cappuccino and pastry in hand, and most likely a tote bag with study materials, I start the ascent up the Gianicolo Hill.

As an aside, Rome has many hills; 7 or more depending on how you count the hills. At times, the Gianicolo is one of the hardest if you climb straight up from the heart of Trastevere. With the climb starting from lower Trastevere, I see kids from the school building on my left walking and running around with the hill at almost a 45° rise. I wonder, how are they not tired from this hill?!

The last part of the ascent is the worst … the stairs. These are not any stairs, but stairs with shallow steps, with some of them broken or overgrown on every other step.

Now at the top of the stairs, taking deep breaths, a pastry broken, and having conqured the ascent, I reach the top of the hill. As I stay to the left, without crossing the street, I start to see a magnificent panorama of Rome.

Behind me I see the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola. This structure dates to the year 1612, and was commissioned by Pope Paul V. On occasion, people are capturing wedding photos, or recording a movie scene here, such as La Grande Bellezza. With two choices of views at hand, I sit on one of the marble benches, eat my cornetto, sip the cappuccino, and watch the sun rise before I start my day of research at the American Academy in Rome.